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All good things must come to an end

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Wednesday, September 20 We have a ferry departure at 7am and are up at the crack of dawn, getting ready, having coffee, and looking at the beautiful view one last time, where the rising sun is a fiery orange line  glowing  on the dark blue horizon. By the time we reach the harbor, well in advance of our departure, we find several cars, buses, and caravans waiting in line already.   N ervous about the crossing, which reportedly can be really rocky, I swallow a Dramamine. The sea is flat, however, and I go to sleep, curled up in my seat, while Oswaldo goes outside and takes a last look at the rocky silhouette of the islands. After three hours we’re ready to dock in Bodø, all passengers waiting in their vehicles. We're next to a converted school bus called Adventure Hostel On Wheels, which looks more intriguing than the other huge tour buses Bodø is a small hillside city bathed in a pale bright light from the sun and the sea. We figure out how to us...

When you've seen one beach, you haven't seen them all

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Tuesday, September 19 Look at that sun, we can't wait to start our day! The baby birds are up too, clamoring for food from their harried mothers. We get into the car and drive past the last little town, Å, through a long tunnel to a parking lot, from which we can walk down to the tip of the island, with unbelievably beautiful views all around, and so quiet - just the sounds of nature. The ground is a mixture of mossy grass and rocks. Turns out that the innocent looking swaying grass hides swampy wet spots, and soon our feet are soaked through to the socks.  But who cares - this is so special and amazing - looking north west as well as southeast and then back across those swampy traps After a quick visit back at the house, less than 10 minutes away, to change shoes and socks, we drive into the town of Å, the center of which is a cluster of pretty red Rorbuer lining a sheltered harbor We walk out on the pier and try to get near a seabird just sittin...

Magnificence all around

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Monday, September 18 We wake up to the most gorgeous day  - our view has changed dramatically. We hurry through breakfast and go for a brisk walk along the boardwalk, where upscale hotels and apartments vie with sea-faring equipment stores and tour companies. We admire the beautiful red and ochre colors chosen for the "Rorbuer" - the fisherman's cottages offered as tourist dwellings throughout the islands - excited that we're headed for one to spend the next two nights, in Tind, at the very tip of the Lofoten islands. Meanwhile we observe a single red man-of war slowly moving through the clear harbor water. They sting like hell, but are admirable nonetheless. Oswaldo, sensitive to these things, seem to sense my affinity to this location, and takes another nice shot of a very happy "Panther/camper."  My cousin Tor has insisted that we stop at certain very special locations and one is Eggum, off the E10 - the main highway through the i...